The Dessert We Deserve: How the French Macaron Became American The meringue-y sandwich cookies—airy, dainty, gluten-free, and high-maintenance—are "the new cupcake" the nation has been waiting for.
There was a point, sometime in the early 2000s, when cupcakes made the transition from a dessert to the dessert. No one is quite sure how it happened, or when, exactly—these things are difficult to track with accuracy—but it had something to do with the slowing of the economy and the rising of Magnolia Bakery, with the continued ascendance of gendered foods and the sudden influence of Sex and the City and Americans' collective devotion to reality television and their collective frustration with the Atkins diet. The simple, decorative treat—a highly adaptable combination of cake and frosting, presented in a single-serving if not a bite-sized form—was, suddenly, everywhere. And then it followed the trajectory that all trends will, in the end: innovation to ubiquity to cliche.
The descent was quick. Crumbs, the cupcake-only chain, closed. The obituaries for the cupcake-as-the-dessert came rolling in. And, in short order—food trends, like nature itself, abhorring a vacuum—a successor was sought. Would America's next Default Dessert be the pie? Would it be the whoopie pie? Would it be the donut? Would it be—oh, but please let it not be—the cronut?
We now have our answer. And it is an answer that has been with us, as answers so often are, the whole time. The new cupcake is a cookie—one that, as of mid-July 2014, had been dubbed "the new cupcake" more than 70 times, thus beating out, among many other contenders, the pie, the popsicle, the donut, the marshmallow, and, fortunately, the cronut. The new cupcake is the macaron.
The descent was quick. Crumbs, the cupcake-only chain, closed. The obituaries for the cupcake-as-the-dessert came rolling in. And, in short order—food trends, like nature itself, abhorring a vacuum—a successor was sought. Would America's next Default Dessert be the pie? Would it be the whoopie pie? Would it be the donut? Would it be—oh, but please let it not be—the cronut?
We now have our answer. And it is an answer that has been with us, as answers so often are, the whole time. The new cupcake is a cookie—one that, as of mid-July 2014, had been dubbed "the new cupcake" more than 70 times, thus beating out, among many other contenders, the pie, the popsicle, the donut, the marshmallow, and, fortunately, the cronut. The new cupcake is the macaron.
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